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The Downtown Crowd Finds an Uptown Perch
当闹市人群邂逅郊区小店

FRUITION “We're really now seeing the renaissance that had been imagined,” said one patron of Red Rooster, above, on a recent night.
享受 - “我们现在真的看到了想象中的复兴时期。”最近的一个夜里，一位红公鸡的老顾客这样说着。

IT’S the dining version of the scene where the Gale house judders down in Oz. Monochrome up until that point, the world is suddenly, gorgeously Technicolor once Dorothy opens the door.
那是一个餐厅的场景，在那里，一座大房子在黑白电影中晃荡，直到那一刻，多萝西打开它的门，世界突然间，变成了五光十色的彩色电影。

Gerald Tucker at Red Rooster.
杰拉德尔•塔克在红公鸡

On any Friday night at Red Rooster, the crowd is likely to encompass not only elements of New York’s “gorgeous mosaic” but also David Dinkins, the former mayor who coined the phrase. There, either at the 76-seat restaurant, the 24 seats at communal tables near the bar, the 20-seat bar itself or the 40-seat sidewalk cafe, neighborhood bankers rub elbows with Bill Clinton; Nora Ephron might be seated alongside Thelma Golden, the director of the Studio Museum; Alicia Keys is likely to be found in a corner with Ralph and Ricky Lauren at a table bracketing her left side and a group of local church ladies on her right.
在任何周五的晚上，红公鸡的客人中都可能不仅有纽约的“华丽马赛克”圈子，也有创造这个短语的前任市长丁勤时。在那里，无论是在有76个座位的餐厅，吧台边上的24个公用席位，20个酒座的酒吧还是40个露天咖啡座上，邻居的银行家可能与比尔•克林顿交往，诺拉•伊弗龙可能与画室博物馆的负责人艾玛•高登并排而坐，可能看到艾丽西亚•凯斯与拉尔夫在某个角落，瑞奇•劳伦坐在她左手边的那张桌子，而她的右手边是一群当地的修女。

That, in a sense, is a typical experience at Red Rooster, the door onto Harlem opened by the celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson at the end of last year.
就某种意义而言，这是在红公鸡特有的体验，哈林区的这家店由名厨山缪森经营，在去年年底时正式开门营业。

Smack on Lenox Avenue just north of 125th Street, and with glamorous neighbors like Marshalls, Staples and CVS, the place almost instantly became a destination not just for those seeking soul food cooked with a Swedish accent, but for people with an appetite for a dining experience reflective of the New York Grace Paley once lauded for its “chromatic dispersion.” Very likely it was the latter that moved Barack Obama to choose Red Rooster as the spot for a $30,800-a-plate fund-raising dinner for the Democratic National Committee in March.
位于雷诺克斯大街正北的125街，与富有魅力的马绍尔群岛，Staples和CVS相邻，这个地方几乎立刻成为了一个目标，不仅是操着口音寻找黑人传统食物的瑞典人，还有所有追寻被纽约女作家格蕾斯•佩蕾赞为“五彩的离散异域”饮食体验而来的人们，后者也很可能促使了3月份巴拉克•奥巴马选择红公鸡作为民主国家委员会30,800 元筹款晚宴的地点。

And, after all, there had to be someplace besides certain sections of hipster Brooklyn where — as Sam Sifton, the restaurant critic of The New York Times, pointed out in a review awarding Red Rooster two stars — the servers, the crowd and the atmosphere all come together to represent the “polyglot, diverse” city that has historically been “a shining beacon for people of all races.”
而且，别忘了，除了时髦的布鲁克林——正如《纽约时报》的餐厅评论家山姆•西夫顿，在一份评论中颁给红公鸡的两颗星——这里无疑是另一个由服务、群众以及气氛汇聚而成的“畅通而多元化”的城市，历来是"所有种族人民闪亮的灯塔。"

There had to be a place that put the lie to a circumstance noted in an earlier Times article whose headline, “The Tablecloths Are White, and So Are Most Faces,” neatly captured restaurant reality in this town. And there had to be a Manhattan neighborhood capable of giving the meatpacking district a run for its money, at the very least in terms of style.
早期纽约时报上有一篇文章标题中曾提到“这里的桌布是白色的，人也是白色的”，巧妙地捕捉了这个小镇上餐厅的现实。但这里无疑是一个戳穿谣言的地方，况且必须要有一个曼哈顿邻区能够用自有资金支持肉类加工区的运转，至少维持住最基本的风格。

And what better place than Harlem? Make that the “new Harlem,” a historic neighborhood so long trumpeted by boosters as the next big thing that the creaky phrase seemed in need of an oiling.
还有比哈林区更好的地方吗？再造一个“新哈林”，一个历史上著名的邻居至今依然被支持者作为下一个大事件来宣扬，但这陈旧的口号看来需要加把油了。

This Mr. Samuelsson provided.
这位萨缪尔森先生准备着。

“We’re really now seeing the renaissance that had been imagined,” Myiesha Phelps, a J. P. Morgan banker and Harlem resident, said this week, as she waited outside Red Rooster for a reservation she said it took months to procure.
“我们现在真的看到了想象中的复兴时期。”一位摩根银行的职员，也是哈林区的居民米伊莎•菲尔普斯这样说，就在本周，那时候她正在红公鸡的门口，等待一个用了好几个月才订到的座位。

She may be correct, and not just on account of a spate of recently opened bars and galleries and retail establishments, places like the neo-Jazz Age boite 67 Orange Street, or the upscale Levain Bakery or the concept shop Swing.
也许她是对的，不仅是对最近一连串新开的酒吧、画廊和零售场所的统计，还有一些地方，像奥兰街67号黑人爵士时代夜总会，或者面向高端消费者的Levain Bakery以及Swing概念店。

“It’s much more interesting here than the meatpacking district,” said Ms. Phelps, a Northern California native who considers herself “a true Harlemite.”
“这里比肉类加工区有趣多了。”菲尔普斯女士这样说，作为一个加州北部的土著，她认为自己是“一个真正的哈林人”。

Harlem is far more stylish, she added, and anyone who has spent time on West 14th Street lately would surely agree that the endless parade of “It” girl aspirants teetering around in Christian Louboutins has imbued the area with the look of a luxury-goods ghetto, where runway trends and logos go to die.
哈林其实更加时尚，她补充说，任何一个不久前在西14街花过时间的人一定都会同意，那些没完没了的在克里斯提•鲁布托周围摇晃的物质女孩队伍，已使这个地区俨然成了个奢侈品的聚集地，神马T台趋势和商标在这里都是浮云！

Harlem, by contrast, seems freshly vitalized, particularly when seen from Red Rooster’s sidewalk cafe. Perched there on a breezy summer evening, a viewer beholds the pageant of Harlem street life unfolding in a manner that would have made James Van Der Zee, the great African American photographer and chronicler of Harlem, proud.
相比之下，哈林区似乎更具生命力，从红公鸡的露天咖啡座尤其可以看出。拣一个凉风习习的夏夜在那里小憩，就能看到哈林区的街头生活盛会盛大开演，这样的风俗让非裔美国摄影师，也是哈林的年代史记录者詹姆斯•泛•德•西都引以为傲。

True, the dandies of Van Der Zee’s day, in their felt fedoras and raccoon coats, are long gone. In their stead are young men wearing cotton Breton fishermen’s sweaters, rolled jeans and Topsiders; African immigrants in brilliantly patterned head wraps and flowing robes; young boys with their hair styled in neo-retro Kid ’n Play flattops; waitresses with plaited dreadlocks swept up into cantilevered coiffures; men in seersucker suits and straw trilbys with stingy brims; matrons dressed in flowing celestial-white ensembles; teenage boys with saggers slung so low on their hips that they’re forced to pluck at them, delicate as antebellum maidens, to keep them from dropping to the ground.
诚然，在泛•德•西时代的那些花花公子们的感觉中，软呢帽和浣熊外套是早就过时了的。取而代之的是年轻人穿着棉质的布勒东渔民毛衣，卷边牛仔裤和平底鞋；非洲移民戴着图案绚丽的头巾裹着柔顺的长袍；男孩们将他们的头发弄成Kid ’n Play组合那样的复古平顶头；女服务员把编好的非洲发髻拢在一起，扎成马尾；男人们穿着泡泡纱西装并佩戴边缘有刺的草帽；主妇们穿着平滑的天体白色套装；十几岁的小男孩将匣钵低悬在臀部，且不得不拽着它们，小心得像内战前的少女，怕它们会掉到地上。

Carla Thomas, a waitress
服务员卡拉•托马斯

Banshee-wailing throttles open, bareheaded daredevils do wheelies up Lenox Avenue on candy-colored Yamahas 250’s.
在莱诺克斯大道上，总有扯着喉咙嚎叫得像女鬼一般的人，光着头骑着糖果色的雅马哈250，不怕死的做转轮特技。

“You don’t really get run-of-the-mill-type people” at Red Rooster, said Adrian Surgeon, the restaurant’s natty greeter, as he waited by the curb to greet a man in a pastel track suit as he exited a chauffeur-driven S.U.V. “What you do get is a mirror of what Harlem offers as a whole.”
“你并没捕捉到真正的平凡人。”这个餐厅潇洒的接待员阿德里恩•瑟君说，那时候他正在路边等待着迎接一位穿着柔软的田径服的男士，那是位退役的SUV驾驶员：“你切实得到的，是一面映照着整个哈林区的镜子。”

Moses Laboy, a bartender
酒保摩西•莱伯

Harlem offers this human panorama not only to patrons of Red Rooster, of course. The same spectacle may be enjoyed by diners at Red Rooster’s neighbors Chez Lucienne and Sylvia’s, at the Lenox Lounge and, come September, at the Pink Tea Cup, the legendary West Village soul-food spot that is establishing an outpost on Lenox Avenue.
哈林区并不仅仅向红公鸡的客人们展示这幅人类全景，当然，在与红公鸡相邻的Chez Lucienne和西尔维娅餐厅的莱诺克斯休息室也能欣赏到同样的景观。将近9月时，在粉红茶杯，传说中的西村黑人传统食物展销会将在莱诺克斯大道设立。

“You can’t not dress up if you’re going out for the evening in Harlem,” said Martin Johnson, an account executive for Kim Kardashian Fragrance. Despite the dreary weather on a recent Friday evening, Mr. Johnson and his date, Latifah Abdur, arrived at Red Rooster dressed, respectively, in a tie from Hermès, a suit from Ralph Lauren Black Label, shoes from Ferragamo, a Gucci bag and a flowing flowered dress from H & M.
“如果你打算夜游哈林区，你绝不能不打扮就出门。”金•卡戴珊香氛的客户主任马丁•约翰逊如是说。尽管上周五晚天气沉闷，约翰逊先生和他的约会对象拉提法 •阿卜杜勒依然打扮精致的来到红公鸡，各自穿戴了爱马仕的领带，拉尔夫•劳伦黑标系列的西装，菲拉格慕的皮鞋，古奇的手袋以及H & M的流花连衣裙。

Martin Johnson and Latifah Abdur
马丁•约翰逊和拉提法•阿卜杜勒

“Why not preen,” Mr. Johnson added, “when there are so many fabulous fashions to embark upon?”
“有如此多极好的时尚物品可选，”约翰逊先生补充着：“为什么不把自己打扮得漂漂亮亮的呢？”

For Gerald Tucker, uptown’s revived lure is so strong that every weekend since Red Rooster opened he has polished his brogues, brushed his mustache, slipped into a Ralph Lauren suit, selected a bow tie from his collection of 14 and then headed uptown from his home on the Lower East Side.
对杰拉德尔•塔克而言，外城复兴的诱惑是如此强烈，每个周末，他擦亮他的布洛克鞋，刷顺他的大胡子，匆忙穿上一套拉尔夫•劳伦的西装，从他那14个藏品中挑选一条领结，然后，红公鸡一开门，他就离开下东区的家里直奔外城而去。

Nowadays he takes the D train, the retired high school teacher said, having lost heart for the hassle of keeping a car in New York.
现在他都乘动车了，这位退休的高校教师说，在纽约养车太麻烦，他已经没心思管它了。

A glass of red wine cupped in his hand, Mr. Tucker surveyed the bar last weekend and pronounced the experiment that is Red Rooster a success. “Of course, everything looks good when it’s new, and believe me, at 80 I’ve seen a lot of things develop and happen in Harlem.”
上个周末，塔克先生捧着一杯红酒，打量着这个酒吧，断定说红公鸡的这一尝试成功了，“当然，任何一个新事物看起来都挺好的，但相信我吧，在80年代，我已经看到很多事物在哈林区发展和新生了。”

He has known the neighborhood in its shiny salad days, when the original Red Rooster, a speakeasy on the outskirts of Strivers’ Row sometimes called the Stork Club of Harlem, was still a watering hole for homegrown sports stars and local pols.
他早在青春少年之时，就已经知道了这个邻居，当时红公鸡的雏形是Strivers’ Row郊区的一个非法经营的酒吧，有时还被称为哈林的斯多克夜总会，那时还是一个本土体育明星和当地政客的聚会场所。

He has known it when Nicky Barnes, the heroin kingpin, ordered murders and ran the drug trade from a stool at the Monarch Bar. He has known it when, even after Harlem was declared a federally funded empowerment zone, the bedrock economics of the place remained bleak, when the median income for a family of four was $18,000, when scrub grew in lots where handsome old brownstones had tumbled down and when on blocks where housing projects stood the population density was the greatest in New York.
他知道这里的时候，海洛因毒枭尼基•巴恩斯正从君主酒吧的一张小凳起家，组织谋杀和经营毒品贸易；他知道这里的时候，即使哈林区已经成为一个联邦政府注资的经济特区之后，这里的基础经济仍然暗淡，那时候一个四口之家的中位收入还是18,000美元；那时侯富丽堂皇堂的老赤褐色砂石建筑尽皆倒塌，灌木丛越长越多；那时候住宅建造计划林立的街区人口密度为全纽约最高。

That other, earlier Harlem now seems a long way off.
还有其他，早期的哈林区现在看来已经很遥远了。

“I think this time Harlem is really back for good,” said the sprightly Mr. Tucker, who attributed his youthful vigor to an unusual regimen. (“A little red wine, very little marijuana, no cocaine and no heroin.”)
“我想，这时候的哈林是真正的在好转了。”塔克先生愉快的说——这个把自己的青春活力全都倾注给了一个不寻常的养生方法的人。（“一杯红酒，极少的大麻，不要可卡因也不要海洛因。”）

Whether Harlem is “back” (if it ever went away) remains to be seen, of course. For Mr. Samuelsson, the celebrity chef born in Ethiopia, adopted and raised in Sweden, the decision to engage with the “mystique, the beauty, the history of Harlem was not to be undertaken lightly,” he explained by phone this week from Sweden.
当然，哈林是否真的“回来”（如果它曾经离开过）仍需拭目以待。对于生于埃塞俄比亚，后被收养而在瑞典长大的名厨萨缪尔森先生而言，“神秘，美景，哈林的历史不必轻轻的进行”贯穿着整个决定，本周他在瑞典通过电话这样解释。

“I lived in Harlem for six years, and for the first four years I wasn’t ready to open a restaurant,” he said. “I didn’t have license to do that until I felt I was in and of Harlem. I don’t take the commitment lightly. It’s important that people can smell that sincerity when they come into the restaurant, regardless of whether they like the chicken or not.”
“我在哈林区已经生活了六年了，在最初的四年里我并未准备去开一家餐厅，”他说：“我没有执照去那么做，直到我感到我是哈林的一员，我并不是轻易地做出这样的承诺。当人们进入餐厅，能够感受到真诚是很重要的，而无论他们是否喜欢店里的鸡肉。”

The point, he added, is that Harlem is the largest and most vital character in the story of Red Rooster, and not the other way around. It is with this in mind that a visitor there senses a crucial balance being held. Red Rooster may help put Harlem on display but not exclusively for the consumption of tourists. Like Paris, to which the chef often compares it, Harlem as a neighborhood, and one blessed with abundant light, wide avenues and a diverse population, functions like a proscenium on which the rich theater of pedestrian life is ceaselessly enacted.
关键是，他补充说，在红公鸡的故事中，最大和至关重要的特征就是哈林文化，而不是其他的什么。正因为考虑了这一点，客人在这里感到一种至关重要的平衡感得到了保留。或许红公鸡有助于展示哈林，但并不完全是为了游客的消费。厨师们往往喜欢拿巴黎做比较，哈林作为一个邻居，又幸运的拥有充足的光线，宽广的林荫道和多元化的人口，它就像一个舞台，平凡生命中的各种剧目在上面不断地上演。

“It’s always a total hodgepodge,” Raymond Bailey, a retired chauffeur, said Tuesday night, as he sipped a Bailey’s Irish Cream on ice at the Red Rooster bar, referring to the street scene in Harlem.
“它常常是一个大杂烩。”一位退休的司机雷蒙德•贝利这么说。周二的晚上，在红公鸡的吧台旁，抿着贝莉的爱尔兰冰激凌，贝利这样说哈林的街景。

Dressed in a suit, a crisp straw hat and sunglasses, Mr. Bailey surveyed the incoming crowd, a parade that included lovely young women in flowing dresses carrying Prada handbags, muscular gay couples in tank tops and Toms shoes, parties of elderly women in their evening finery, French tourists in the clam diggers that only French tourists still favor, and ... isn’t that Cindy Crawford getting out of a black Suburban?
穿着西装，戴着轻快的草帽和太阳镜，贝利先生打量着进店的人群，这些人中有身着飘逸的连衣裙、拿着Prada手袋的可爱年轻女郎，肌肉发达穿着条纹背心、踏着汤姆斯鞋的同性恋夫妇，身着晚礼服的老年妇女政党，以及穿着只有他们自己还喜欢的挖蛤裤的法国游客，等等等等……那从黑人群里出来的不是辛迪•克劳馥么？

It is.
真的是！

And what brings you up to Harlem, a reporter asked the model/mogul and her companion, the celebrity hairstylist Stephen Knoll.
是什么将你带到了哈林，一个记者这样问着这个名模和她的同伴——著名的发型师斯蒂芬•克诺。

“Dinner!” the two said in unison.
“食物！”他们俩竟异口同声的回答。

Cindy Crawford, with the celebrity hairstylist Stephen Knoll, in front of the Red Rooster.
辛迪•克劳馥，和著名发型师史蒂芬•科诺在红公鸡前

译文地址：http://www.fanyitie.com/yuleshuangyu/1031.html
原文地址：http://www.nytimes.com/2011/07/14/fashion/the-downtown-crowd-finds-a-perch-in-harlem.html?pagewanted=1&_r=1&sq=The%20Downtown%20Crowd%20Finds%20an%20Uptown%20Perch&st=cse&scp=1

Posted at 02:56PM Aug 07, 2011 by brenda_chu in 翻译例文  |  评论[2]